The future of Vogue: Anna Wintour’s legacy and possible replacements

Anna Wintour steps down as Vogue’s top editor after years of shaping the fashion landscape

When Anna Wintour submitted her first issue of American Vogue in late 1988, the response from the magazine’s printer was unexpected: “Has there been a mistake?” The cover, featuring model Michaela Bercu in a Christian Lacroix couture jacket paired with jeans, departed from the highly stylized, formal portraits that had defined the magazine for decades. The shot was casual, taken outdoors, and captured a spontaneous energy that would come to symbolize a new chapter for Vogue.

The event laid the foundation for Wintour’s outlook, which would revolutionize more than just the magazine, reshaping the entire fashion industry. She brought an element of authenticity and accessibility to the publication, steering it away from its previous focus on pure luxury. Choosing to feature a model in denim, even though it occurred accidentally due to a wardrobe mistake, initiated a cultural shift. It suggested that fashion could be part of everyday attire, not just seen on fashion runways.

Having made a name for herself at British Vogue, Wintour was brought in to revitalize the American edition, and over the next 37 years, she did just that. Under her leadership, the magazine moved with confidence through the supermodel era, the rise of grunge, the dominance of celebrity culture, and the evolution toward digital-first storytelling. Throughout, Wintour maintained an acute awareness of what fashion meant to culture at large—and how it could influence more than clothing.

This week, Wintour announced she would be stepping down from her role as editor-in-chief of Vogue, wrapping up one of the most significant editorial tenures in the fashion world. Even though she will continue as chief content officer at Condé Nast—a position she has held since 2020—her departure from the magazine’s editorial helm signifies the conclusion of a remarkable chapter.

Wintour’s legacy at Vogue extends far beyond magazine pages. She redefined what belonged on a fashion cover, notably introducing celebrity faces to a space previously reserved for models. Within her first year, she placed Madonna on the cover—an unconventional move that sparked a new era of fashion-meets-pop-culture synergy. It was the beginning of a transformation that would eventually see reality stars, politicians, and cultural figures appear on the magazine’s covers.

Throughout her time at Vogue, Wintour attentively responded to public preferences, adjusting the magazine’s approach to reflect broader trends in media and consumer behavior. Her editorial decisions often had real-world effects. For instance, she played a significant role in bringing figures like Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump into mainstream fashion discussions, offering them a platform that significantly amplified their visibility.

This editorial power wasn’t without criticism. Wintour’s decisions sometimes sparked backlash, such as the controversial 2008 cover featuring LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen, which prompted debate over racial imagery and representation. Yet, such moments only further cemented the reality that Wintour had become a central figure in the dialogue around fashion and power.

Her unique fashion—characterized by her distinctive bob haircut and iconic sunglasses—became synonymous with her career image. Wintour’s attendance at the Met Gala, the coveted prestige of the September edition, and numerous nods to her image in popular culture (like the imaginary Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada) all cemented her status as a cultural influencer.

Although there was an enigmatic presence about her public image, Wintour frequently minimized the focus on her persona. She was more invested in the creativity and editorial direction of the publications she managed than in personal perceptions. Nevertheless, her impact was undeniable, and she often acknowledged it with self-awareness by attending events such as the The Devil Wears Prada musical gala, accepting the parallels without explicitly validating them.

Throughout her career, Wintour adeptly preserved her influence within a consistently evolving industry. Her capability to remain relevant amidst significant shifts in media—from traditional magazines to digital platforms—highlights her adaptability and strategic foresight. She recognized early on the importance of an online presence, even as traditional print outlets struggled to keep their audience. Although some critics contended there was an excessive emphasis on celebrity stories in the digital age, Wintour maintained that these choices were crucial for retaining cultural relevance.

Past coworkers and those knowledgeable in the fashion industry propose that Wintour’s choice to reduce her role was probably made independently. Though she remains the chief content officer, she continues to influence Vogue and other prominent Condé Nast publications, and will supposedly have input in selecting who follows in her footsteps. Anticipation regarding this decision is already rising.

Potential candidates include Eva Chen, director of fashion partnerships at Instagram, who brings a wealth of digital experience to the table—a crucial asset in today’s media landscape. Also frequently mentioned is Chioma Nnadi, currently overseeing editorial content at British Vogue, and widely viewed as one of Wintour’s protégés. Her rise within the organization has been watched closely, and she represents a potential continuation of Wintour’s legacy with a new generational lens.

Other individuals being discussed are Amy Astley, once at the helm of Teen Vogue and now steering Architectural Digest, along with current senior editors such as Chloe Schama and Chloe Malle. Additionally, Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini, who works as a film producer connected to the fashion industry, has also come up in conversations—though these predictions are purely speculative.

As Wintour departs from the magazine she played a pivotal role in turning into a global powerhouse, experts in the field are assessing her influence. The fashion industry has undergone considerable changes throughout her tenure—not only in aesthetics, but also in its influence on cultural and political conversations. Issues like sustainability, ethical labor conditions, and the digital revolution have shifted fashion from a niche focus to a broader discourse on identity, values, and societal progress.

Wintour, often seen as an influential person in the elite fashion sphere, contributed to making it more approachable—while still maintaining the exceptional levels of style and inventiveness that Vogue is known for. Her ability to merge exclusivity with widespread attraction, and luxury fashion with everyday relevance, is possibly her most lasting accomplishment.

As the sector considers the future, the task for the person following in her footsteps will be to keep managing an ever-changing environment. Juggling the business demands of contemporary media with the cultural duties now associated with fashion won’t be simple. However, Wintour has already contributed to paving this path.

In several ways, her presence at the nuptials of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez earlier this year underscored her unique cultural influence. By showcasing Sánchez on the front page in 2023, Wintour was more than a participant at the event—she had helped shape the narrative around it.

For all her editorial achievements, Wintour’s greatest contribution may be the way she expanded fashion’s relevance beyond its traditional boundaries. She didn’t just document trends—she influenced them, predicted them, and, in many cases, created them.

As Anna Wintour leaves her role as editor-in-chief, Vogue and the broader fashion sector are entering a period of reflection and transformation. Her departure marks more than just the end of a period—it’s a chance to consider the future path for a magazine and an industry that she greatly influenced.